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The Swale National Nature Reserve

Introduction

Situated at the south-eastern end of the Isle of Sheppey, the Swale National Nature Reserve forms part of the internationally recognised coastal marshlands of north Kent. The reserve's saltmarshes, grazing marshes, creeks and mudflats provide feeding and roosting areas for large numbers of wildfowl and waders. It is managed by English Nature.

The Reserve

The reserve largely consists of marshland which can be separated into two types: grazing marsh and saltmarsh (salting), the latter being occasionally flooded with seawater during spring tides and generally left ungrazed. At low tide extensive mudflats are revealed which, together with the marshland, attract considerable numbers of ducks, geese and wading birds. Ten species of wildfowl regularly nest on the reserve in the spring, and large flocks of waders including oystercatcher, curlew, redshank, knot and dunlin, can be seen during the winter months. At that time of year  you may also chance to see flights of linnet, twite, greenfinch and the occasional Lapland bunting - on the very edge of its northern range. A total of over 200 bird species have been recorded on the reserve.

At the eastern end of the reserve lies Shellness where a spit extends into the Swale channel. Such a feature is formed by longshore drift of beach material, which in this case is largely composed of cockle shells, washed up from the extensive cockle beds off Whitstable. The shell spit is still gradually continuing to extend in a south-westerly direction. Once the sand and shell shingle forming the spit has stabilized, it becomes colonised by a distinctive group of plants including the attractive yellow horned-poppy and viper's bugloss.

Below the beach at Shellness Point, a vast area of muddy foreshore can be seen at low tide. Hidden just beneath the surface of the mud is a wealth of small marine invertebrates which form the staple diet of many waders. Some of these animals occur in amazing numbers; the shrimp-like crustacean Corophium, for example, can reach densities of over 50,000 per square metre! The preferred food of the dark-bellied brent geese, however, is eelgrass. Up to 1500 of these birds may arrive in early winter from Siberia to feed on the extensive eelgrass beds growing close to, the low watermark. Eelgrass, incidentally, is the only British flowering plant able to grow submerged in the sea.

Moving inland, ungrazed saltmarshes are found between the mudflats and the sea wall.

The dominant plant here is cord grass, though lots of smaller grasses can be seen growing beneath, such as saltmarsh grass and sea arrow grass. In the summer months, the flowers of salt-tolerant species such as sea-lavender, sea-purslane and thrift may also be seen. These saltmarshes are also the main site in Britain of the rare ground lackey moth. Its eggs can withstand both saltwater and dessication, and the caterpillars, which emerge in early summer, form silken tents amongst the saltmarsh vegetation.

The marshland on the inland side of the sea wall is carefully managed to provide a number of different habitats, and so maintain diversity of wildlife found in the reserve. It is grazed by both cattle and sheep, some of the marsh fields being grazed the whole year round, some being winter-grazed, and some being left ungrazed.

The ungrazed grassland is favoured by short-eared owls, hen harriers and many breeding wildfowl, as the long blades and tussocks of grass hold large numbers of rodents and give good cover from nest predators. Both slow-worms and common lizards may be seen basking in the sun on the sea wall in summer, but grass snakes prefer the damper ditch edges to the drier rough grassland.

In spring when the cattle are taken off the winter-grazed areas, the grassland assumes a kind of broken tufted effect. Waders like snipe, redshank and lapwing breed here. Small mammals and insects are numerous because of the varied structure of the grass.

The all-year-round grazing area is the preferred feeding ground for ducks, geese and waders, particularly around the wetter areas after stormy winter weather. Waterfowl find it easier to graze on the shorter, more regular swards because of the structure of their bills. There is, of course, little cover on an area like this for small mammals or breeding birds.

The marshland is intersected by many freshwater ditches, although these tend to be slightly brackish. Marsh frogs are common in the ditches, and plants characteristic of slow-moving water such as ivy‑leaved duckweed and thread-leaved water-crowfoot can be found together with those tolerant of more brackish conditions such as sea club-rush and the rarer tasselweeds. Many birds feed here and several species including reed warbler, sedge warbler, yellow wagtail and gadwall breed in the nearby flooded marsh areas. Rabbits are numerous and concentrate around the drier earth mounds, believed to be medieval salt-workings. Unusually, jet black individuals occur. In midsummer, commonly seen butterflies include gatekeeper and painted lady together with the Essex skipper, a species restricted to coastal areas of south-east England. Several species of brightly coloured dragonflies can be seen darting and hovering over the ditches too.

The reserve is managed in a way that ensures different parts of the marshland remain suitably wet. This is done by controlled flooding of the four main marsh fields on a rotational basis. The fields are surrounded by one metre high earth walls called bunds which serve to trap rainfall and raise surface water levels, thereby providing shallow floods for the benefit of water birds. Ditches allow for excess water to be drained from one field to another by means of adjustable sluices. The flooded areas are rotated, with a different one of the four sites flooded each year, and in this way the quality of the grassland is maintained. If additional water is required, it can be pumped up from a borehole situated at the western end of the public footpath. A visitor route is provided around this area of rotational floods, where good views can be obtained from the observation hides. Financial aid for the bunding scheme was provided by the Council to the Commission of the European Community.

Access

There is a footpath along the top of the sea wall from Shellness hamlet to Sayes Court from where excellent views of the saltings and grazed marshes can be obtained. Access to the observation hides on the flood areas is signposted from the sea wall footpath. The circular route is 3km (about 2 miles) long and rejoins the footpath 1km (about 1/2 mile) further on. Entry to the remainder of the reserve is by written permit only, obtainable from the English Nature regional office.

At Shellness you may walk to the shell beach along the path at the edge of the saltings, and along to the point, keeping the yellow posts to your left. Please do not stray from the path or make too much noise as you will disturb roosting, feeding or nesting birds on the beach and on the saltings. You are welcome to use the wartime blockhouse as a hide to watch the birds. The hamlet of Shellness is private land and as such does not form part of the reserve. Please respect the residents' privacy. Party visits can be arranged by contacting the reserve warden whose address is shown on the main reserve notice boards. Further information and permits can be obtained from the South-East Regional Office at;

English Nature

The Countryside Management Centre
Coldharbour Farm
Wye, Ashford
Kent
TN25 5DB
Tel: 01233 812525
Email: kent@english-nature.org.uk