Elmley RSPB Reserve

INTRODUCTION 

The new Wellmarsh Hide

Elmley Marshes Reserve lies in the south-west corner of the Isle of Sheppey in the area known as the North Kent Marshes. The reserve consists of 3,300 acres of rough, damp grazing pasture intersected by meandering 'fleets' and ditches and bordered by the saltmarsh and tidal mud­flats of the Swale Estuary as well as some arable farmland.

Over the centuries man has constructed sea‑walls to turn some of the saltmarsh into freshwater marsh suitable for grazing. This land, with its tidal creek system, has always been poorly drained, thus providing an ideal habitat for wetland birds, plants and other animals. But mechanisation and the drive towards more intensive farming has meant that much of this type of habitat is now well-drained and planted with crops, to the loss of the wildlife.

In order to protect some of this important and dwindling wetland and to try to improve conditions for its birds and other wildlife, the RSPB leased the land and the shooting rights of Elmley from Oxford University in 1975. Management to improve the habitats has been very successful and Elmley is now a wetland of outstanding ornithological importance.

Management

To enhance the existing wet conditions on the reserve's principal section of Spitend Marsh, earth dams and embankments have been constructed to retain shallow floodwater and to raise the water table in the ditches. In order to keep this 700 acres flooded, the surface run-off from 2,700 acres is trapped, rather than being allowed to filter out through sluices to the sea, and is pumped into 'reservoir' areas for use during the summer when the marshes tend to dry out rapidly. It is especially important for the waterfowl that the marshes are wet at hatching time.

Another important factor is grazing by livestock, with­out which the numbers and variety of birds would be diminished. Cattle are 'shepherded' by the reserve wardens to create the ideal mosaic of marshy ground, from closely grazed swards, which are favoured by wintering geese and wigeon, to lightly-grazed and even ungrazed areas to provide nesting cover for the ducks and waders. Livestock are removed from the main nesting areas in spring to prevent trampling and disturbance. By adapting traditional farming practices, controlling water distribution and preventing human disturbance, the numbers of birds using Spitend to breed, over-winter and visit on migration have been considerably increased.

THE RESERVE

Habitats

The landscape of Elmley is vast, flat and featureless except for distant industry, and has only a few trees scattered around the buildings of Kingshill Farm.

The predominant habitat is grazing marsh and, as well as the main refuge area of Spitend Marsh, there is some marsh that is privately farmed by a tenant but over which the RSPB holds the rights to prevent shooting. The rush­fringed freshwater fleets and ditches provide a habitat for good numbers of diving ducks and coots whilst the shallow lagoons attract huge flocks of breeding, overwintering and migrant wildfowl and wading birds. Even the drier grassland supports birds like yellow wagtail and grey partridge.

The fringing saltmarsh is rich in flora, and black-headed gulls and common terns breed on some of its islands. The Sheppey saltings are considered to be among the most outstanding in Britain and the mudflats of the Swale provide some of the finest feeding areas for waders - the oozing mud seethes with estuarine invertebrates.

Birds

Elmley Marshes has probably the highest nesting concentration of redshanks and lapwings in the country and the spring air is full of their evocative display flights and calls. Amongst the 15 species of waterfowl which regularly breed on the reserve are high concentrations of pochard and shoveler, and pintail, ruff, black-tailed godwit, teal, wigeon and garganey have all been encouraged to nest for the first time by practical reserve management on Spitend. Common terns and a large colony of black­headed gulls nest on Flanders Mare Island and can be seen from the Spitend Point hide. The ditches abound with coots and moorhens, the trilling call of little grebes and some diving duck. Oystercatchers and ringed plovers nest in dry, bare patches scattered over the marsh while shelduck prefer disused rabbit burrows.

In winter huge numbers of wildfowl descend on the reserve from Siberia, Eastern Europe and Scandinavia, including over 10,000 wigeon, 3,000 teal and 2,000 white­fronted geese as well as pintail in their hundreds and others such as Bewick's swan, red-breasted merganser, various grebes and geese. Wintering raptors notably include hen harrier, rough-legged buzzard, merlin, and sometimes as many as 20 short-eared owls which may be seen hunting over the bleak, windswept marshes. Lapland and snow buntings feature among the passerines. Tens of thousands of waders feed at low tide on the Swale and when the tides cover their feeding grounds they form collective roosts, one of which may be viewed from the hides. Grey plovers are particularly numerous and large roosts of dunlin and curlew also occur.

During the autumn migration along the main east coast routes a variety of waders stop-over to feed, including up to 100 spotted redshank and greenshank, various sand­pipers and stints and occasional rarities like grey phalarope and white-rumped sandpiper.

Mammals

Rabbits in abundance and some hares are the mammals most likely to be seen, and water voles are often seen or heard 'plopping' into the water at one's approach. There are water, pygmy and common shrews, and the abundant short-tailed voles are the main prey of both kestrels and short‑eared owls. The tiny harvest mouse is rarely seen. Foxes are present but the commonest carnivores are the stoat followed by the weasel. Feral ferrets and mink are unwelcome residents because they take young waterfowl.

Amphibians, reptiles and fish

The marsh frog, of east European origin, is the most obvious species. It is three times larger than our native frog, and its loud, 'laughing' croak carries over long distances in May and June. Both slow-worms and common lizards can be seen basking in the sun on seawalls in summer, but grass snakes prefer the ditch edges and smooth and crested newts are common though not often seen by day. The only fishes to be found in the freshwater marsh are sticklebacks, eels and flounders, the latter probably coming in through the sluices from the Swale. Mullet feed in the shallows of the estuary during summer, often with their backs protruding from the water.

Insects

The Sheppey saltmarshes are the main site in Britain of the rare ground lackey moth Malacosoma castrensis. Its eggs are encysted to withstand both saltwater and dessication and the caterpillars form 'tents' amongst the salt­marsh vegetation. About 140 species of moth have been recorded and, of the butterflies, the meadow brown is especially plentiful and the migrant painted lady occurs regularly. Several dragonflies are to be found of which the damselfly Ischnura elegans and dragonfly Aeshna mixta are particularly numerous.

Plants

As to be expected, many of the unusual plants are grasses. The soft, silky beard‑grass grows at the edges of some ditches, curved hard-grass on the saltings and three species of wild barley can be seen in close proximity.

The slow-flowing ditches and fleets contain both sub­merged and emergent flora of which perhaps the most attractive are the two sub-species of water crowfoot. The sea-walls are the home of many species which grow near to saltwater like sea clover and slender hare's-ear; but the true halophytes ‑ plants that are able to withstand regular covering by saltwater - are to be found on the saltmarsh. Their zonation in relation to their tolerance of salt is fascinating; and the changing scene of the whole saltmarsh makes a fine spectacle - starting with the white of scurvy grass and ending with the mauve of sea lavender.

VISITING

Map reference TQ939679

There are five hides available, but the first is 1.5 miles from the car park and the toilets. The reserve is open on certain days of the week through­out the year. For current arrangements please consult the free reserves visiting leaflet obtainable from the Reserves Department.

Access is via the A249 from the M20 or M2, turning right at the small blue sign one mile after crossing Kingsferry Bridge. There is car parking and information at Kingshill Farm and a one mile walk to the hides on Spitend Marsh. Elderly and handicapped visitors may drive closer to the hides by arrangement.

Rubber boots are advisable at most times of the year. Parties of 10 or more should contact the warden in advance of a visit.