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A TRIP TO BULGARIA In late May 2007 I went on a 14-day tour of Bulgaria with the British-Bulgarian Friendship Society; at £l050 all in, including flights — good value. This tour, one of several natural history/bird—watching tours run by the Society, concentrated on east Bulgaria (the Black Sea coast) and the Rhodope Mountains. One is accompanied at all times by an excellent Bulgarian guide/naturalist and an interpreter. The party of 12 travelled in a small coach, changing venues (three or four star hotels) every two or three days.
A wide range of habitats was visited and many different interesting species seen.
The Black Sea coast, although quite squalid in places, largely due to mass fly-tipping, and unsympathetic development, still offers many attractive sites and interesting fauna. Large flocks of Dalmation and white pelicans were widespread and birds such as ruddy shelduck and glossy ibis were easy to see in good numbers. Small flocks of rose-coloured starlings were a beautiful sight.
A visit to Trigrad Gorge produced one of the highlights of the trip for me - wallcreeper. I’d seen pictures, seen them on television and film but in real life they surpassed all my expectations. They are exquisite. I’d always wanted to see them, not just as a “tick’ that’s not my style of natural history, and to watch two, often quite close, for an hour or so was a wonderful experience. I could have watched them all day (and the next day, ad infinitum).
When we arrived at Studen Kladenets, a vulture feeding station, run by the Bulgarian Society for the Protection of Birds, at about 10.00am, we were treated to a mixed flock of about 20 griffon and Egyptian vultures feeding on a cow carcass. The Bulgarian leader said that black vultures usually arrived between 1 1.00 and 1 1.30am and, sure enough, three flew in at 11.20am. The griffon and Egyptians all moved off as the blacks just dominated; they are BIG.
Rock thrush was another bird I particularly wanted to see and again they are more beautiful and charismatic than any film or pictures can ever portray. We had several good views of them, often singing (the thrush not us!). Wonderful. Another memorable event was standing on a large area of dry plain with calandra larks and tawny pipits all around us (and the odd red-backed shrike on the occasional bush), with 12 lesser-spotted eagles in view, also two long-legged buzzards.
We then drove a few miles to a wooded valley and watched two masked shrikes in full view for some time, while a Levant sparrowhawk flew down the valley.
I could go on and on, but what’s the point? If none of the above whets your appetite then nothing will! Good value, good cheap food and drink, lots of wildlife, nice, sometimes spectacular, scenery and only three hours away.
Trevor Hatton
British Bulgarian Friendship Society – 02072 37 7 616 — www.bbfs.org.uk.
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